When I spontaneously opted to make the three hour motor jaunt to Pedernales Falls State Park, I had only once been to Austin and the term "Hill Country" meant nothing to me. Once I escaped the sprawling Houston metro area, the drive was easy. My GPS was on the blink but I found my way, trailing the Austin-Bound politically left bumper stickers and Subarus.
There is a reason they say "Keep Austin Weird." I was charmed as I sped past the numerous ranches, rest areas, weathered antique shops, and bizarre dealers of recycled metal turned art. The density of commerce steadily increased as I approached the southern limits of Austin. In addition to the quaint mom and pops I would be remiss if I forgot to mention Buc-ee's rest stop, known for its iconic beaver, childish billboard advertising style, and big-box like size and appeal. West Austin seemed to have another flavor entirely. Less weathered and more eco-touristy, 290 West snakes up and down through affluent sprawling suburbs, and is littered with low density commercial areas. It is speckled with pizza parlors, sports stores, and family grocers. It is here that I got my first glimpse of the Hill Country topography.
After leaving 290 and having the chance to drive past every configuration of cottage, ranch, shed and creek, the Park entrance was neither easy to spot, nor easy to miss. As is the case with many parks of this type, the gate house where one goes to pay their small fee, grab a map, and get oriented sits miles within the park boundaries. After paying my fee, I proceeded to the falls themselves as pictures below but with considerably less water. This formation is the namesake of the park.
The "Falls" at Pedernales |
Visitors are welcome to traipse around on the rocks and in the water. However, some visitors were dissapointed to find that the namesake of the park isn't a majestic waterfall of the type you might see in Las Vegas. During my first visit, I found myself defending the park to a young man of about my same age, on its merits of beauty. He thought the lack of waterfall was a real bummer and a complete let down.
Pedernales falls also offers a primitive camping area in which guests are required to carry in any water, food, tents and gear over three miles of hills. I was also pegged as a local trail authority during that leg by an ill prepared family carrying copious amount of loose camping paraphanalea. They wanted to know how much further they had until they reached their campsite, as I was hiking in the opposite direction.
Scattered throughout the park are remnants of 150 year old mortar-less stone settler dwellings, from the period of initial western settlements. One such settlement is tucked away near the back of the park next to a tiny natural spring called Jones Spring. The tiny crumbling one-room reminded me of scenes from the 1960s film, The Magnificent Seven.
The next time I am back in Hill Country I will try to get a reservation for primitive camping. However I will be sure not to pitch my tent too close to the riverbed, so as to avoid an unintended early morning swim.